Method of making shoes



$26, i937; E. J. RAY 2,968,706

METHOD 0F MAKING SHOES Filed May 13, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet l l 1, fr, Q

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Patented Jan. 26, i937 PATENT FFQE METHon or MAKING sHoEs applicationMay 13, 1933, Serial No. 670,907

32 Claims.

This invention relates to insoles and to methods of making shoes andinsoles for shoes. The invention is illustrated herein with reference tothe manufacture of shoes in which the uppers are 5 secured in overlastedrelation to sole members by cement.

A method of making shoes having uppers secured in overlasted position bycement is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No.1,932,545, granted October 3l, 1933, upon an application filed in thename of George Goddu. In accordance With the method illustrated in thepatent mentioned, an insole having an upstanding shoulder or lip isassembled with an upper on a last, the upper is pulled over, andwaterdispersed rubber cement is applied to the marginal portions of theupper and insole. While the cement is still fresh, the upper at eachside of the shoe is worked over the edge of the insole and is secured inlasted relation thereto by metallic fastenings such as staples which aredriven through the margin of the upper and the lip of the insole and areclinched against the inner face of the lip. After the cement has set,the up- 5 standing lip and the marginal portions of the upper aretrimmed 01T, the trimming cut usually being made below the line ofstaples and flush with the overlasted portion of the upper so that thestaples will be removed from the finished m ioe. As illustrated in thepatent referred to, the trimming out at the shank portion of the shoemay be located below the line of staples in the manner described or itmay be located above the staples so that the latter will be left in the3 shank portion of the shoe to assist in holding the upper in lastedrelation to the insole.

Objects of the invention are to provide improved insoles for use in themanufacture of shoes having uppers secured in lasted position by ocement, to provide improved insole strips to which a shoe upper may besecured to hold it temporarily in lasted relation to the insole, and toprovide an improved method of making shoes in which the improved insolesof the present in- 5 vention are utilized.

With these objects in view and in accordance with a feature ci theinvention there is provided an improved insole having secured to eachside of its outer face an upper attaching strip coml prising a taperedor wedge-shaped base portion and an inclined lip projecting from saidbase por- The lip of the insole strip provides a means by which a shoeupper may be temporarily secured or anchored in lasted relation to theinsole i by metal fastenings, for example, staples, during the settingof the cement by which the upper is permanently attached t the insole.As illustrated herein, the improved strip is composed of iiexiblematerial such as rubber composition made of scrap crepe rubber mixedwith fibre and the rib or lip extends upwardly from one edge of thewedge-shaped base portion. The lip is so positioned relatively to thebase portion of the strip that when the latter is applied to the outerface of an insole the lip will be inclined inwardly relatively to themargin of the insole, thereby facilitating the attachment of the shoeupper to the lip. The strip is reinforced with fabric material such ascanvas or duck, which is vulcanized to the upper side of the vstrip andcovers both 15 sides of the lip, thereby strengthening the lip andproviding a surface more suitable than rubber for the staple-insertingmeans, for example an anvil, to slide against.

.The materials of the strip are vulcanized together in the form of asingle sheet having a series of inclined parallel lips extending acrossone surface thereof and the individual strips are formed by severingthem from the sheet, each out extending along the base of one of thelips.

The strips are attached to the outer face of an insole, in accordancewith one aspect of the invention, by cutting each strip into lengthsappropriate for the insole to be prepared and applying rubber cement tothe under side of the strip. The strips are then positioned on the outerface of a relatively thin ileXible insole, each strip being spacedinwardly from the edge of the insole a sufficient distance to leave amarginal area to which the shoe upper can be cemented. Preferably, andas illustrated, the insole strips will extend from about the tip line tothe heel breast line to provide an upstanding lip at those portions ofthe shoe where the side lasting operation is performed.

After a shoe upper has been stapled to the ribs of the attaching stripsand the cement between the upper and margins of the insole has set, atrimming operation may be performed to remove the insole lips andupstanding marginal portions of the upper. The trimming cut will usuallyextend inside the line of staples to remove the latter with the lips andedges of the upper, although the cut may, if desired, be omitted or madeoutside the staples at the shank portion of the shoe so that the Stapleswill be left in the shoe to assist in holding the upper in lastedposition. The cuts will extend above the wedge-shaped base portions ofthe strips so that these portions may, if desired, be left attached tothe face of the insole to serve as filler pieces. This aspect of themethod is especially useful in shoes h-aving transversely convex bottomssince the portions of the strips which remain on the insole will, inmany instances, ll up the depressions or hollows at the opposite sidesof the shoe bottom adjacent to the edges of the upper, and thus even upthe bottom surface of the shoe so that no filler piece will be requiredprior to the attachment of the outsole.

In accordance with another aspect of the method, a substantiallywedge-shaped upper attaching strip may be secured to the insole, thisstrip, as herein illustrated, being flat across its upper surface andYtapering toward the edge of the insole so that no substantial shoulderor ridge will be formed at the inner edge of the feather portion of theinsole. The wedge-shaped strip may be utilized when an upper is to besecured in lasted relation to the insole by curved staples which passinto the material of the strip without penetrating the body of theinsole. Since the strip tapers toward the edge of the insole, the upperwill lie at against the insole margin, thereby insuring that a solidattachment of the upper to the insole will be obtained. The staples areinserted in the portion of the strip which is located farthest from theinsole margin, this portion preferably being of sufficient thickness topermit the curved legs of the staples to extend into the material of thestrip without passing completely therethrough. In trimming theoverlasted margins of the upper the trimming cut is preferably madealong the outer edge ofthe strip, thereby separating the upper and stripso that the latter may be pulled away from the insole together with thetrimmed portions of the upper which are stapled to the strip. In thisway the excess upper material, the attaching strip and the Staples areremoved from the shoe bottom, thereby leaving theV insole with only theshoe upper cemented to its marginal portions.

The above and other features and aspects of the invention Will appearmore fully from the following detailed description when read inconnection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in theappended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a portion of the lower platen of thevulcanizing press which is utilized in practicing the present method;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the platen shown in Fig. l with a strip offabric material being pressed into its inclined grooves;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the platen after the fabric has beenformed in the grooves and a layer of rubber composition has beendeposited upon the fabric; y

Fig. 4 shows the upper platen being Ypressed vagainst the lower platento force the rubber material into the grooves;

Fig. 5 shows the fabric-covered rubber sheet after it has been removedfrom the vulcanizing press, inverted, and in the process of being cutinto strips;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of an insole after the ribbed strips havebeen attached to its outer face from about the tip line to theheel-breast line, the insole being reinforced rearw-ardly of the ballline with bre;

Fig. 7 is a perspective View of an all leather insole having cemented toeach side of its outer face a wedge-shaped insole strip;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view of a shoe mounted on a last having atransversely convex bottom, the insole having attached to its outer faceupper-attaching strips with inwardly inclined lips to which the upper issecured by staples;

Fig. 9 is a View of the shoe shown in Fig. 8 after the upstandingportions of the upper and lip have been trimmed away and an outsole hasbeen cemented to the shoe bottom;

Fig. l0 is a cross-sectional View of a, shoe mounted on a last having atransversely convex bottom, the insole having secured to its outer facewedge-shaped strips to which the upper is secured by curved staples;

Fig. ll shows the shoe of Fig. 10 after a trimming operation has beenperformed along the outer edge of the wedge-shaped strip, the viewillustrating how the strip and the trimmed portion of the upper arepulled away from the outer face of the insole; and

Fig. 12 is a cross-sectional view of the shoe after bottom filler hasbeen added to the shoe bottom and an outsole has been cemented thereto.

In practicing the method of the present invention as illustrated hereinthere is provided a vulcanizing press comprising a lower mold or platenle, preferably of steel, having formed therein a series of parallelslots or grooves l2 Which are located approximately three-eighths of nan inch apart. The grooves are preferably a quarter of an inch deep andabout half as wide and extend across the fLLll width of the platen. Asshown in Fig. 2, the grooves are not vertical but are inclined at an,angle relatively to the lower horizontal surface of the platen. Theupper surfaces of the areas of the platen which extend between thegrooves i2, indicated by the numerals E4, are also inclined at an anglerelatively to the horizontal, each of these surfaces being so positionedwith respect to the groove at its left, as viewed in Fig. 2, that itforms an angle of approximately eighty-five degrees with such groove. Bythis arrangement each groove I2 will be positioned at a slightly acuteangle relatively to the inclined surface I4 which is located at itsright.

A sheet of fabric material I5, consisting of light canvas, duck, or asimilar material, is laid upon the grooved surface of the platen itl andthe material is then pressed into the grooves l2 by means of suitablehand tools such, for example, as a pair of elongated blades i8 and lil(Fig. 2) provided with handles (not shown) and arranged to be inserted.alternately into successive grooves until the fabric material has beencompletely tucked therein. In performing this operation the tool lastused should be left in its groove until after the first tool has beenwithdrawn from the groove behind and inserted in the groove ahead of thefirst-mentioned groove, thus insuring that the fabric material will beheld firmly in place by one tool while the other tool is being withdrawnfrom the rear groove and inserted in the groove ahead.

After the sheet of fabric material I6 has been completely formed to theshapes of the grooves in the platen i9, a layer of rubber composition 2Gin a soft plastic condition is spread over the fabric material. Thisrubber composition is preferably composed of scrap crepe rubber mixedwith bre although it may be composed of any analogous rubber compositionwhich is capable of being molded into any desired shape and which willform a relatively rigid mass upon the application of sufiicient heat,for example, upon being vulcanized.

An upper platen, which cooperates with the lower platen l and whichforms the other member of the vulcanizing press, is now brought downagainst the layer of rubber -composition 20, the platen 22 comprising arectangular plate (Fig. ll) having a substantially flat bottom surfacefor engagement with the rubber composition. The platen 22 is pressedforcibly against the lower platen and both members are heated to asuitable vulcanizing temperature, the pressure being supplied, forexample, by means of a pressing device of any well-known type,illustrated herein as a pair of presser plates 2d and 26. The heat andpressure thus applied will cause the rubber composition to enter thegrooves l2 and the areas between the grooves, thereby filling the foldsin the fab-ric material which lie in the grooves and in the spacesformed by the inclined surfaces lli between the grooves. When sufficientheat and pressure have been applied, the fabric material and rubberbecome vulcanized together to form a continuous sheet 23 of rubberreinforced on one side with fabric material, the upper and lowersurfaces of the sheet taking the shapes of the corresponding surfaces ofthe platens.

The platens are next separated and the rubber sheet 28 is removedtherefrom. Fig. 5 shows the sheet removed from the vulcanizing press andinverted so that the portions which were located in the grooves nowproject upwardly in the form tending rib-s cr lips 35. It will be notedFig. that the lips 3U are inclined toward the intermediate portions ofthe sheet which connect the lips, these portions being indicated by thenumeral 32. Owing to the peculiar formation of the lower platen i6, theupper surface of each of these intermediate portions 32 is inclineddownwardly away from the lip 3i! which is located at its forward edge,as viewed in Fig. 5. The lou surface 34?, of the sheet 25 is perfectlyhat so that it forms with each inclined surface 32 a tapered orwedge-shaped intermediate portion 3l, the lips 3i? being located at thethick sides of the wedge-shaped portions. As shown in Fig. 5 both sidesof the upstanding lips or ribs 38 are reinforced with fabric materialwhich is vulcanized to the sheet, whereas the under side 34 of the hasno fabric covering.

After the ribbed sheet 28 has been removed from the vulcanizing pressthe next step is to cut it into strips suitable for attachment to aninsole. This may be accomplished by means of a rotary cutter of anywell-known type or it may, if desired, be performed by hand, forexample, with a knife or shears. The strips are forme-d by cutting alongthe base of each lip 32 at the side which is adjacent to the thin edgeof the wedgeshaped intermediate portion, as shown in Fig. 5, th ebyseparating the sheet intoA a plurality of each having an upwardly`extending lip t one edge which is inclined toward the upper ace of alaterally extending wedge-shaped proximately three-eighths of an inchlaterally of the lip. As stated, the upper side of the strip, and bothsides of the lip are reinforced with fabric material vulcanized to therubber, While the under side of the strip is composed of rubbercomposition, thereby providing a suitable surface for receiving rubbercement.

The strips 36 are now ready to be attached to the outer face of aninsole. Accordingly, an insole 38, which is to be used in a shoe havingits upper secured in lasted relation by cement, is selected and twosections are cut from a severed strip 3B, these sections being cut intolengths which will extend approximately from the tip line to the heelbreast line of the selected insole. The insole 38, illustrated in Fig.6, comprises a relatively thin body portion, preferably of leather,reinforced rearwardly of the ball line with a thin layer of fibre 35which is cemented to the outer face of the insole. By reinforcing theshank and heel portions of the insole with a layer of bre the insole canbe tempered and molded to the shape of a last bottom and will retainsuch shape after the molding operation has been performed. It is to beunderstood, however, that the present method is not limited to the useof insoles reinforced with fibre but may be utilized with other types ofinsoles, for example, insoles reinforced with materials other than bre,or insoles formed wholly of leather or fibre.

The under surface of each strip 36 is now coated with rubber cement bywhich the strip is to be secured to the insole. The strips are thenplaced upon the outer face of the insole in such a position that theirforward ends will coincide substantially with the tip line, each stripbeing spaced inwardly from the edge of the insole margin a distancecorresponding approximately to the width of the feather portion of theinsole, as shown in Fig. 6. The sides of the strips which have the lips38 projecting therefrom are located nearest the insole margins and thewedgeshaped base portions 32 extend inwardly from these magins. Fig. 6illustrates how the insole will appear after the ribbed strips have beencemented along each margin of its outer face from about the tip line tothe heel-breast line. The insole 38 is now attached in the usual mannerto a last 40 (Fig. 8) having a transversely convex bottom and an uppera2 is assembled on the last and pulled over, thus preparing the shoe forthe lasting operation.

A type of shoe in which the insole of the present invention isespecially adapted for use is one in which the lasting of the upper atthe sides of the shank and forepart of the shoe is performed in themanner set forth in Patent No. 1,932,545, previously referred to.Briefly, the lasting operations consist in applying cement to themargins of the insole and the shoe upper, working the upper over theedges of the insole into' lasted position against the insoie lip. andinserting metal fastenings such as staples through the upper and lip tohold the upper in lasted relation to the insole while the cement issetting. Fig. 8 shows a transverse section of the shoe after the marginsof the insole and upper have been coated with cement. indicated by thenumeral 56, and the upper has been 4worked over the edge of the insoleand secured in lasted position against the lip 30 by means of staples44.

As set forth in the patent referred to, the working of the upper .12into lasted position against the insole lip 3D, and the inserting ofstaples lil through the upper and lip to hold the upper in lastedposition while the cement is set ting, may be performed, for example, bya machine of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No.1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931, upon the application of George Goddu.The toe portion of the shoe may be lasted by employing end embracingwipers of the type utilized in the well-known bed-lasting machine, thesewipers acting to wipe the upper materials over the edge of the insole atthe toe end thereof and into lasted position against the feather portionof the insole. When the Wipers have wiped the toe portion of the upperagainst the feather portion of the insole, the upper may be temporarilysecured in lasted position While the cement is setting by any suitablemeans such, for example,l as a binding wire or a toe binder of anywellknown construction. After the cement has set, the means utilized forsecuring the upper temporarily in lasted position is removed, thuscompleting the lasting operation at the toe end of the shoe. The heelportion of the shoe may be lasted in the usual manner in the bed lastingmachine by wiping the upper over the heel end of the insole and securingit thereto by driven fastenings which are clinched against a metal plateat the heel end of the last.

After the toe, side and heel portions of the upper 42 have been securedin lasted relation to the insole as described, a trimming operation isperformed to remove the upstanding portions of the upper and insole lipwhich project from the opposite sides of the insole and to remove theexcess upper material at the toe end of the shoe. The trimming operationat the toe end of the shoe rearwardly to the tip line may be performedin any convenient manner, for example, by raising the excess materialaway from the face of the insole and cutting it olf by hand with the aidof a knife or shears. The trimming cut from the tip line to the ballline is usually made in the plane of the exposed face of the overlastedportions of the upper materials l2 which overlie the margin of theinsole, so that the cut will pass below the line of staples 44 and thusremove the staples with the upstanding portions of the upper materialand insole lip. At the shank portion of the shoe it is sometimesdesirable toy trim the upstanding portions of the upper and lip in aplane just above the line of staples so that the latter will remainpermanently in the shoe, thereby providing additional means for securingthe upper to the insole at this portion of the shoe. Moreover, bytrimming above the line of staples at the shank portion of the shoe aspace or recess will be provided between the bases of the lips in whicha steel shank piece or stiffener may be conveniently located. If thestaples are to be left in the shank portion of the shoe to hold theupper in lasted relation to the insole, the cement can be omitted ifdesired.

One of the advantages resulting from the use of the illustrated insolein the manufacture of shoes by the method outlined above is that afterthe trimming operation has been performed at the forepart and shankportions of the sho-e, there will remain cemented to the outer face ofthe insole, from about the tip line to the heelbreast line,'thewedge-shaped base portions 3l of the insole vstrips 36. Thesewedge-shaped base portions will then serve as filler pieces to fill inthe hollows or depressions which, in shoes having transversely curvedbottoms, are left at the inner edges of the upper after the upstandingportions of the upper and lip at the sides of the shoe have been trimmedaway. Except in cases where a relatively thick insole is used which maybe reduced at its marginal or feather portion an amount equal to thethickness of the upper materials and thereby prevent the formation of.hollows or depressions at the inner sides of the lips after the trimmingoperation, (which, of course, cannot be done With a thin flexibleinsole), the depressions remaining at the inner sides of the lips afterthe trimming operation generally require the addition of a ller piece inorder to provide a more even surface on the bottom of the shoe for thereception of an outsole. The addition of a ller piece, however, adds tothe thickness of the shoe bottom and reduces proportionately theflexibility of the shoe. A thin flexible insole, such as that disclosedby the present invention, having cemented to each side of. its upperface an upper attaching strip provided with a lip for temporarilyholding the upper in lasted position and having a Wedge-shaped baseportion which will remain cemented to the insole and thus serve as afill-er piece to fill in the hollow or depression left between the edgeof the upper and the outer face of the insole after the upstandingportions of the upper and lip have been trimmed away, tends to produce afairly even surface on a shoe having a transversely convex bottom, thusrendering the shoe bottom suitable to receive the outsole without theaddition of an extra filler piece. In this Way the danger of increasingthe thickness of the shoe bottom and thereby reducing the flexibilityof. the shoe is eliminated. Fig. 9 shows Vthe shoe after the trimmingoperation has been performed, the overlasted margins of the upperroughened to receive the sole-attaching cement, and an outsole 1&8 laidon the shoe bottom and permanently attached thereto by cement. It willbe seen in Fig. 9 that the transverse convexity of the bottom of thelast ll@ is such that, after the upstanding portions of the lip 3Q andupper materials have been trimmed away, the wedgeshaped base portions3l' of the strips 35 which remain on the outer face of the insole willfill in the hollows adjacent to the inner edges of the upper i2 and thusproduce a substantially even surface against which the outsole i8 caneasily be laid without the addition of an extra filler piece.

Fig. 7 illustrates a modification of. the present method of makinginsoles in which a pair of insole strips 5t are cemented to the outerface of a leather insole 52 at predetermined distances inwardy of itsmargins, the strips 5t being substantially wedge-shaped in transversesection and extending from about the tip line to the heel-breast line ofthe insole. The wedge-shaped strips shown in Fig. 7 may be made of arubber composition composed of scrap crepe rubber mixed with fibre thesame as the ribbed strips t, or they may, if desired, be made ofleather, canvas or some other suitable material. Since strips composedof vulcanized rubber are more flexible than those made of leather, nbreor canvas, and will therefore conform more readily to the curvatures ofthe longitudinal margins of an insole, they may be preferable for sometypes of insoles rather than strips made of leather or similarmaterials. The rubber composition can be vulcanized in the form of asingle sheet Vbetween the platens l0 and 22 of the vulcanizing press,the grooves l2 in the lower platen I0, however, being first plugged upso that no ribs will be formed on the lower side of the sheet. A layerof fabric material, such as canvas o-r duck, should be laid upon theplaten lll before the rubber composition is placed thereon so that therubber sheet will be reinforced on one side with fabric material. Afterthe canvas has been vulcanized to the rubber, the sheet can be removedand cut into substantially Wedge-shaped strips 5G suitable forattachment to an insole. Each strip 5t is then cut into lengths whichWill extend substantially from the tip line to the heelbreast line of aselected insole and the strip positioned on the insole with its thickedge farthest from the insole margin so that the upper surface of thestrip will taper downwardly as it approaches the feather portion of theinsole, thereby preventing the formation of. a substantial shoulder orridge at the inner edge .of the insole margin.

The insole illustrated in Fig. 7 is adapted for use in a shoe in whichthe upper is secured in lasted position against the inclined uppersurface of the tapered strip by curved staples which extend through onlya portion of the strip, the staples having legs which pass downwardlythrough the upper and into the strip and then curve upwardly to beanchored in the material of the strip without passing completelytherethrough. Fig. 10 illustrates in transverse section a shoe mountedon a last 54 and having its upper S secured in lasted relation to theinsole 52 against the top faces of the insole strips 55 by curvedstaples 58. A machine for securing the shoe upper in lasted relation tothe insole by curved staples is fully shown and described in UnitedStates Letters Patent No. 1,815,295 granted July 21, 1931 upon anapplication filed in the name of George Goddu. Since the wedge-shapedstrips 5i) taper toward the margins of the insole, the upper will lieclose to the surface of the insole after it has been wiped over andtemporarily secured to the inclined surface of the strip 55, therebyinsuring that a solid attachment of the upper to the insole will beobtained when the cement has set. The inner portions of the wedge-shapedstrips, into which the staples 53 are inserted, are thick enough topermit the curved legs of the staples to be embedded therein withoutpenetrating the surface of the insole 52.

When. an insole embodying the modification of the invention disclosed inFig. 7 is employed it is not necessary to trim the overlasted marginalportions of the upper since the upper materials will lie substantiallyflat against the upper surface of the insole strip. A trimming operationshould be performed, however, if the upper materials extend beyond theinner edge of the strip, although such a condition will seldom occurbecause of the relatively wide area covered by the strip inwardly of thefeather portion of the insole. The trimming out, if made, may extendinside of or above the line of staples 5B in order to remove only theextreme marginal portions of the upper and thus leave the staples in theshoe bottom to assist in holding the upper in lasted position, or thecut may, if desired, be made at, or in the vicinity of, the outer edgeof the strip 5B, as shown in Fig. 11, so that the strip will beseparated entirely from the overlasted portion of the upper and maysubsequently be pulled away from the outer face of the insole togetherwith the trimmed portions of the upper, thereby removing the staples andleaving only the overlasted portions of the upper cemented to the outerface of the insole. After the trimming operation has been performed theportion of the shoe bottom extending between the trimmed margins of theupper may be filled with bottom filler 5l! (Fig. 12) to level up theshoe bottom and a shank piece (not shown) may be located in the usualmanner at the shank portion of the shoe. The overlasted marginalportions of the upper are then roughened in the usual manner to providea suitable surface for receiving pyroxylin cement and an outsole 62 islaid on the shoe bottom and permanently attached thereto by cement. Fig.12 shows the shoe in cross section after the insole strips have beenpulled away from the outer face of the insole, bottom filler applied tothe shoe bottom, and the outsole 62 permanently cemented to the shoebottom. The outsole may, of course, be attached to the shoe in someother manner, if desired, without affecting the flexibility of the shoe.For example, the last may be removed from the shoe and the outsole,upper and insole secured together by through-and-through stitches,preferably lockstitches, which are located in a stitch-receiving channelformed in the outsole and are concealed by the flap of the channel.

The disclosed method of making strips for insoles is not claimed hereinsince it forms the subject-matter of Patent No. 2,010,827, grantedAugust 13, 1935 on an application filed as a division of the presentapplication.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to itsouter face upperattaching strips of elastic material to which a shoeupper may be secured to hold the upper temporarily in lasted relation tothe insole, said strips being reinforced with a non-elastic material.

2. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having attached to itsouter face in spaced relation to the edges thereof elastic upperattaching strips for holding a shoe upper temporarily in lasted relationto the insole, said strips being reinforced on one side with anon-elastic material and tapering widthwise of the insole.

3. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having cemented alongeach margin of its outer face, from about the tip line to the heelbreastline an upper-attaching strip which is secured to the insole across thefull Width of the strip and is substantially wedge-shaped in crosssection and tapers toward the margin of the insole.

4. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to itsouter face in spaced relation to its opposite edges upper-attachingstrips of rubber composition reinforced with fabric material, saidstrips being substantially wedge-shaped widthwise so that each striptapers transversely of the outer face of the insole.

5. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having upper-attachingstrips secured thereon lengthwise of its outer face and in spacedrelation to the edges of the insole, thereby providing an anchorage formetal fastenings which secure a shoe upper in lasted relation to theinsole, said strips being composed of rubber composition reinforced withfabric material and tapering transversely of the insole.

6. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to itsouter face inwardly of each margin a fabric reinforced rubber stripprovided with an inclined lip and a wedge-shaped base portion whichtapers laterally of the lip.

'7. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having upper-attachingstrips secured to the opposite margins of its outer face, each of saidstrips being composed of an elastic composition reinforced with fabricmaterial and having an upwardly and inwardly inclined lip extending froma base portion which projects inwardly from the lip, the upper surfaceof said base portion being disposed at a sharply acute angle to theouter face of the insole.

8. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to eachmargin of its outer face, from about the tip line to the heel-breastline, a strip adapted to hold a shoe upper temporarily in lastedrelation to the insole, said strip having a tapered body portion ofrubber composition provided at its outer edge with an upwardlyprojecting rubber rib, said body portion and rib being reinforced ontheir exposed surfaces with fabric material.

9. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having rubber stripsattached to the opposite margins of its outer face from about the tipline to the heel-breast line, each of said strips being reinforced withfabric material and being adapted temporarily to hold a shoe upper inlasted position, said strips having laterally tapered base portions andinclined ribs projecting upwardly from those sides of the base portionswhich are nearer the edges of the insole.

10. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured alongthe marginal portions of its outer face, from about the tip line to theheel-breast line, upper-attaching strips of rubber composition, each ofsaid strips having a base portion which tapers inwardly relatively tothe edge of the insole and a lip projecting upwardly and inwardly fromsaid tapered base portion, said lip being reinforced with fabricmaterial.

1l. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having attached to itsouter face along each margin an upper-attaching strip of rubbercomposition which extends from about the tip line to the heel-breastline, said strip having a wedgeshaped base portion tapering inwardlyfrom the margin of the insole and an upwardly projecting lip at one edgeof said base portion, said lip being inclined inwardly toward the uppersurface of the base and being reinforced on both sides with fabricmaterial.

12. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having cementedthereto at each side of its outer face an upper-attaching strip ofrubber composition reinforced with fabric, said strip having a lipprojecting substantially at right angles from the upper side of awedge-shaped base portion which extends inwardly from the lip.

13. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to itsouter face, in spaced relation from the edge thereof, an upper attachingstrip composed of vulcanized rubber reinforced with fabric material,said strip having an upwardly and inwardly inclined lip projecting froma beveled base portion which tapers inwardly from the lip and has alower surface of rubber attached to the insole by cement.

14. An insole for in the manufacture of shoes comprising a body portionof leather reinforced with bre, said insole having attached to its outerface adjacent to the feather portions of the insole upper attachingstrips of rubber composition reinforced with fabric material, each ofsaid strips having an upwardly and inwardly inclined lip extending froma wedge-shaped base portion which tapers inwardly from the inner edge ofthe feather portion so that the upper surface of said base portion willjoin the outer line and adjacent to the margins of the insole,upper-attaching strips of rubber composition reinforced on their exposedsurfaces with fabric material, said strips each having an upwardly andinwardly inclined lip projecting from the thick side of a wedge-shapedbase portion which extends inwardly from the margin of the insole.

16. An insole for use in cement-lasted shoes in which staples areemployed temporarily to secure I the uppers in lasted relation to theinsoles, comprising a thin leather body portion reinforced on its outerface with fibre cemented to the shank and heel portions thereof, saidinsole also having cemented to its outer face upper-attaching strips ofvulcanized rubber composition reinforced on their exposed surfaces withfabric material, said strips being located 4in spaced relation to theedges of the insole and extending substantially from the tip line to theheel-breast line and each strip having an upwardly and inwardly inclinedlip projecting from a wedge-shaped base portion which tapers inwardlyfrom the inner edge of the insole margin, said lip being reinforced onboth sides with fabric material to strengthen the lip and to provide asuitable surface at the inner side of the lip along which a staplinganvil may slip during the lasting operation.

17. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having anupper-attaching strip of rubber composition reinforced with fabricmaterial attached to its outer face, said strip being wedgeshaped incross section and having an upper surface against which a shoe upper maybe temporarily secured in lasted relation to the insole by metalfastenings.

18. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having secured to itsouter face, in spaced relation to its margins and extending from aboutthe tip line to the heel-breast line, wedge-shaped strips of rubberreinforced on their upper surfaces with fabric material, the thin edgeof each strip being located adjacent to the margin of insole so that ashoe upper can be temporarily secured to the strip without leaving aspace between the upper and the insole margin.

19. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes having cemented to itsouter face, in spaced relation to its edges and extending lengthwise ofthe insole from about the tip line to the heelbreast line, wedge-shapedstrips of rubber reinforced on their exposed surfaces with fabricmaterial, the thick portions of said wedge-shaped strips being locatedfarthest from the insole margins so that a shoe upper can be securedtothe strips by staples to hold it temporarily in lasted relation to theinsole without having the staples penetrate the body portion of theinsole.

20. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes in which uppers aresecured in lasted position by cement, said insole having cemented to itsouter face from about the tip line to the heel-breast line a pair ofwedge-shaped upperattaching strips of rubber composition reinforced ontheir uppersides with fabric material, each strip being approximatelyequal in width to the adjacent feather portion of the insole and havingits outer edge coinciding substantially with the inner edge of saidfeather portion.

21. A triangular strip adapted for attachment to the outer face of aninsole to provide an-A chorage for upper-securing metallic fastenings,two surfaces of said strip being relatively wide and being located at asharply acute angle to each other and the third surface being relativelynarrow and being located substantially at rightV angles to one of saidwide surfaces, the narrow surface and one of the wide surfaces beingcomposed of fabric material and the other wide surface being composed ofrubber to facilitate its attachment by cement to the outer face of aninsole.

22. An upper-attaching strip for an insole, said strip having a two-plybase portion and an inclined lip projecting upwardly from one edge ofsaid base portion, said lip comprising three thicknesses of materialwidthwise of the strip.

23. An insole strip for holding an upper in lasted relation to aninsole, said strip being composed of rubber composition reinforced withfabric material and having at one edge an upwardly extending lipinclined toward the upper face of a wedge-shaped base portion.

24. An upper-attaching strip for an insole, said strip being composed ofvulcanized rubber reinforced on its exposed surfaces with fabricmaterial and having an upwardly extending lip supported by a baseportion which tapers laterally of the lip.

25. A flexible insole strip of rubber adapted to be secured to the outerface of an insole adjacent to its margin to provide material to which ashoe upper may be temporarily secured in lasted relation to the insole,said strip having an upwardly projecting lip which slants inwardly fromone edge oi the strip and having a beveled base portion extendinglaterally of the lip, the lip and the upper surface of the base portionbeing reinforced with fabric material.

28. An insole strip which is wedge-shaped in cross section and iscomposed of vulcanized rubber reinforced on its exposed surfaces withfabric material, said strip being approximately equal in width to thefeather portion of a relatively thin insole and being about as thick assaid insole at the thickest part of the strip.

27. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which uppers aresecured in lasted relation to insoles by cement, which consists inremovably securing upper-attaching strips to the outer face of aninsole, assembling the insole with a shoe upper on a last, working theupper over the edge of the insole into lasted position against theexposed surfaces of the attaching strips, inserting metal fasteningsthrough the upper and into the strips to hold the upper in lastedrelation to the insole while the cement is setting, severing the upperalong the outer edges of the strips, and pulling oi the strips andsevered portions of the upper, thereby removing the strips, fastenings,and trimmed portions of the upper from the outer face of the insole.

28. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which shoe uppers aresecured in lasted relation to insoles by cement, which consists incementing an upper-attaching strip to the outer face of a thin ilexibleinsole adjacent to its margin, coating the marginal portions of theinsole and of a shoe upper with cement, assembling the insole and upperon a last and working the upper into lasted position against the exposedsurface of said attaching strip, inserting curved staples through themargin of the upper and into the strip to hold the upper in lastedrelation to the insole while the cementI is setting, trimming the upperalong the outer edge of the attaching strip, and pulling oi the stripwith the trimmed margin of the upper stapled thereto, thereby removingsaid margin, strip, and staples from the bottom surface of the shoe.

29. That improvement in methods of making shoes in which uppers aresecured in lasted relation to insoles by cement, which consists incementing a substantially wedge-shaped strip of rubber compositionreinforced with fabric materal to the outer face of a thin ilexibleinsole, the thin edge of said wedge-shaped strip being located adjacentto the inner edge of the feather portion of said insole, coating themargins of the insole and of a shoe upper with cement, assembling theinsole and upper on a last and working the upper into lasted positionagainst the exposed surface of said strip, inserting staples through theupper and into the thick portion of the wedge-shaped strip to hold theupper temporarily in lasted position while the cement is setting, saidstaples having legs which curve in the material of the strip withoutpenetrating the body of the insole, trimming the margin of the upperalong the thin edge of the strip, and pulling off the strip and trimmedmargin or" the upper, thereby removing the strip, staples, and uppermaterial from the outer face of the insole.

30. A shoe including an insole, a heel and shank reinforcement securedto the heel and shank portion of the insole, a separate strip ofmaterial secured against the outer face of the insole and against theshank portion of said heel and shank stiiener, an upper turned over themarginal edge of said insole, the edge of said upper abutting againstsaid strip and secured to the insole around the external margin thereof,and an outsole laid on and secured to the insole.

3l. The method of making shoes which comprises supplying an insole of asize to t the bottom of a last, said insole having a shank piece appliedto its under side and a strip extending from the heel portion of theinsole around the margin of the shank and forepart of the shoe to form alasting shoulder, assembling and pulling over an upper on said last andside-lasting the lasting margin of the upper against said shoulder,adhesively securing the margin of the upper with the margin of theinsole, and then trimming off the lasting edge of the upper and of thestrip forming the lasting shoulder.

32. In a method of making shoes the steps of providing an insole havinga separate upstanding strip united thereto around at least a portionthereof and spaced from the edge thereof to dene a margin, drawing anupper over said insole with the overhanging edges of said upper lyingupon the margin of the insole and against the upstanding part of thestrip, uniting said upper to said insole along the margin of the insoleoutside the strip, joining the contiguous margins of said upper to theupstanding part of the strip to maintain the upper in position until itsunion to the insole becomes xed, and then trimming off the upstandingcontiguous margins of the strip and upper leaving the united part of theupper and insole unaffected.

EUGENE J. RAY.

